050925 Stanage Plantation

Overview - Stanage Plantation is full of routes at a wide enough spread of grades that anyone can have fun nipping up and down easy routes, or concentrating on the harder ones. The Unconquerables have been staring at the lot of us for so long, it was time to go and do them. Unfortunately, the order of pure sunshine must have got lost somewhere, as we were forced to cower from the interspersed showers throughout the day. Right Unconquerable has just joined the list of HVSs that simply have to be done - it's great.

Left Unconquerable (3* E1 5b):

Led - I still can't jam, so mostly climbed the left wall, used a gaston on the edge of the crack to force my way up. Just as I was contemplating the crux, the rain arrived, and I had to lower off. An hour later (30 min of rain, 30 min of drying) I got back up to it, and it's a mean one. The top section is pleasantly juggy and quite a nice respit to finish on. Not quite the huge classic I was thinking of, but still probably one that needs to be done in a grit education.

Right Unconquerable (3* HVS 5a):

Seconded Damian - Now this is the huge classic I was expecting, perhaps even better. Stand up in the break, put large cams in under the flake and layback to glory. Wonderful. Possibly the first time I've ever seen Damian actually properly fall off something - which should warn others about the ease of the topout - definitely the crux. Abandon all style and combat role onto the top, it's far easier than any other method!